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Using the Canon ST-E2 to fire studio flashes
Contents
Problem
I own a 20D and a 550 EX flash, I also have an ST-E2 because I don't like on camera flash. Within its limitations the ST-E2 works very well with the 550, but I often found myself wanting another light in my basic portrait setup, and I wasn't prepared to pop for the two 580s that I will eventually buy. Added to this mix was a twenty five year old Crown monobloc flash unit with a built in slave that I happened to have laying around.
Approach One
In order to incorporate the monobloc I put the 550 on the camera and with the flash set to Manual I could fire the monobloc. This combination was not very satisfying because the 550 had to be on the camera, where I didn't really want it and I was quite limited in where I could place the monobloc due to the fact that it had to see the flash from the 550.
Approach Two
I decided to try and add the ST-E2 to get the 550 off of the camera. The problem was that the ST-E2 would cause the 550 to fire a preflash, which would fire the monobloc out of sync with the camera shutter. I came across a page on the internet saying that if you covered the four small contacts on your hotshoe the ST-E2 would fire the 550 in Manual and nothing more. With this approach I now have the 550 and the monobloc working together, plus I have more flexibility in my light placement. Initially I used black electrical tape to cover the contacts but it blended in so well on the body I knew that at some moment when I least needed it to happen I wouldn't be able to figure out why my flash would not work in ETTL. Hence the red tape.
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Other Considerations
I have lost all TTL flash metering with the camera. I am able to use the LCD screen to judge the lighting and make appropriate flash settings or F stop changes and come up with good looking images. Ultimately I bought a Sekonic L358 meter, which is inexpensive and works great, because I wanted to get back to more hand metering in all my photography.
I still encountered times when the slave on the monobloc couldn't see the 550 and/or I wanted another small light source. The solution to these problems has been a small self contained flash ($25) that takes two AA batteries, has a built in slave and a tripod screw hole. I move this tiny flash around as required and it always seems to see the 550 flash and it always triggers the monobloc.
My goal is to have three 550/580s, with Pocket Wizards as my location flash kit, but for the time being the above arrangement works well.
Images
Tape on camera
Small flash and ST-E2 with a lifetime supply of tape
My monobloc
Revision History
v0.1 dh: Original
Comments
http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=106940Julian Loke 1/16/2005 3:38:34 PM
Hi Julian,
I use the low-cost JTL (chinesse made) monoblocks, and still use the 420 EX, fired to the ceiling in manual as the trigger. I was planning on using sync-cable, but afraid of the high voltage trigger things. My question is, will the STE2's IR fire the JTL, since it also has the in-built IR receiver?
Sony Kusumo 1/30/2005 3:53:36 AM
Hi,
Why not just set the 550EX to manual when it´s used as a slave? I do this all the time and that works perfect.
Jonas
Jonas Andersson 2005Oct26 03:44:12 -0700
Thanks so much for this - solved a real hassle for me! I'm just peeved that on such a hi-tech system there's no manual over-ride; electrical tape is a tad lo-tech after spending so much money.
I bought a 580EX, 430EX and STE2 to go with my 20D as a mobile rig, but when at home I've got a Bowens Gemini three head system, and thought it would be great to use the 20D and STE2 to get around cables trailing everywhere. Whatever I did, the 20D thought too long before opening the shutter, and missed the flash from the Bowens that the STE2 had triggered. I applied the electrical tape as suggested, metered manually, and it's worked just fine ever since.
So now.... it's time for the other half of the equation!
My touring rig includes a Leica M6 and lenses which I'd just love to couple up to the 580 and 430 with the STE triggering. Any suggestions of the best way? Is there any way I could use any of the features of the Canon units or would I inevitably be setting everything on manual? If I can get this side sorted all will be very well in the world!
Phoenix 2007Apr16 07:46:55 -1000
No need for electrical tape people. Just set the flash to M mode. With the 580EX II, you hold down "Mode" for 2 seconds in slave operation and it switches to M. Very slick for using with studio strobes.
Jason Hollister 2007Jul01 14:11:42 -1000
Even with the flash in manual mode I still get a preflash. I'm trying to meter with the L358 but always get the under-exposed reading. The preflash triggers the meter instead of the actual flash. My set up is ST-E2 and a 580exii in manual mode.
I tried taping the contacts, and was able to stop the preflash and get a correct meter reading. However, when taking the image it always resulted in a completely black image. Removing the tape, the image was fine, but then metering would not work.
Mike Jones 2008Apr07 00:33:23 -1000
Setting the Canon Speedlight to M/manual will not work if you are using monolights that also have a built in infra red sensor. I had the same problem with my Elinchrom's, which have both an optical & infra red slave. The ST-E2, or any speedlight for that matter, whether in manual/ETTL/slave, etc. will fire a pre infra signal and/or flash, and prematurely fire your monolights.
Andrew Skrzypek 2008Oct27 07:52:37 -1000
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